Things to Do in Ostend

Beach-day at Klein Strand

The city's eastern beach is a ribbon of pale sand where lifeguard whistles compete with waffle-vendor bells. Spread your towel near the pastel changing cabins and you'll hear the soft pop of paddleballs, smell coconut sunscreen, and taste the crunch of hot, sugar-dusted waffles handed through a kiosk window.

Mercator floating museum

This 1930s three-masted ship is parked in the inner harbor, its teak decks still leaking tar on sunny days. Below, brass compasses glint inside cabins that smell of Stockholm tar and coffee grounds; you'll feel the slight sway even though she's permanently berthed.

James Ensor House

The expressionist painter's aunt's house hides on a quiet lane off Vlaanderenstraat. Inside, floorboards creak like a horror soundtrack while carnival masks stare from dusty cabinets. The air is thick with old turpentine and the faint sweetness of 19th-century wallpaper paste.

Oosterochelde shrimp haul

Hop aboard a small family boat at 6 a.m. and watch the net scrape the sandy bottom. You'll feel the diesel thrum through your boots, smell diesel mixing with seaweed, and taste the raw grey shrimp the skipper hands you - sweet, cold, still twitching.

Fort Napoleon rooftop

The pentagonal brick fort at the harbor mouth has a grass roof grazed by sheep. Climb the spiral stairs for a 360° panorama of container cranes, wind turbines and the distant skyline of Knokke. Inside, damp walls breathe gunpowder history and the café serves mustardy beef stew that steams up your glasses.

Leopold Quarter for B&Bs in restored townhouses smelling of fresh linen and sea spray

Marie-Joséplein for grand hotels with wrought-iron balconies overlooking the park

Visserskaai dockside hostels where you'll hear masts clink at dawn

Kursaal zone for boutique stays above jazz bars

Inner harbour apartments with loft views of trawlers unloading

Mariakerke suburb for quieter guesthouses fronting the dunes